FLORENCE September 2018

Doors of 13th century hotel of Annalena

I have joined the tourists in Florence, wearing out the Ponte Vecchio while my gelato rapidly melts and drips all over. Only i feel different, more like a pilgrim, and worried we will all cause the collapse of this antique bridge. I am in awe of the visual aesthetics of this place, where my artsy critical mind has it easy, not needing to blank out Vancouver city images of contractors' building specials, vapid green glassed high rises, rain forest climate and wannabe NYC pretensions.

It is a warm and yes, sunny day in September, a Monday and I am really here in the heart of the capital of Renaissance cities. For years i had felt deterred from visiting Florence because of its popularity as a tourism destination. But this city puts me under its spell with magnificent architecture and devotion to the arts of all kinds. The Italian people i met were pleasantly tolerant, even kind considering the way we foreigners invade their city.

I feel fortunate my home away from home here is the Palazzo Annalena Hotel Pensione, a Renaissance 5 story Palazzo now converted. The third floor walk up is for hotel guests, while the other floors seem to be private residences. No elevator and these are ambitious stairs to climb, as ceiling heights are at least 20 feet, many of the characteristics of a Florentine Palazzo are retained. I am charmed with my tall, narrow room, number 11, with a section of balcony over- looking Annalena's garden. Now about Annalena and why this is her hotel and garden.

Annalena's mother the Countess Orsini died in childbirth in 1417, her father Lord of Rimini, died in battle soon after. Young Annalena was adopted by Cosimo de' Medici and his wife, the Countess of Bardi who gave her the best education possible for the times.

At the age of 27 her beauty caused captain Baldaccio of Anghiari to fall in love with Annalena, Married in 1439 to Baldaccio, the Medicis gave Annalena, the Palazzo as her dowry. They lived there and had one child called Guido. Apparently Annalena's beauty aroused the morbid desire of others. The family's luck was not to last, as Baldaccio was murdered by an envious Orlandini with the complicity of now an envious Cosimo.

Widowed and after a period of mourning, Annalena transformed her Palazzo into a convent and safe house for women and girls. Here she remained until her death in 1491.

It remained a convent for many years but with cultural changes brought about by wars and economic strife, the Palazzo eventually became the private enterprise that it is.

The staff so very kind and accommodating with one's phone connection problems, taxi service and directions including the senora that runs the Breakfast Room. My address is Via Romana, 34. Amazing that i am but a few paces from a quiet side entrance into the Boboli Gardens. Having to adjust to the heat of the day i vow to try the paths leading to intriguing horticultural garden and sulptural works not visible from the main walk i take to go the length of the gardens on a cooler day. Here too one can notice the economic cutbacks and hardships a reality. I hardly saw a gardener, and noticed the wilting plants and extreme aridity of the grounds. This is painful to notice for a gardener. My cousin Irene noted my comment about the gardens from my e-mail and suggested i volunteer my gardening help thereby extending my stay!

Tuesday and i walk with my iphone map to locate Piazza Della Republica where The Walk and Talk Center offer tours of differenct types. Here i choose to join the 2 hour City Tour with a small group. We are led by beautiful fast walking Leonara. Immediately we pass a site awaiting re development which was the ancient Roman market. Florence once was a Roman city. The walk familiarizes me with a little of the layout of the city but with such

richness, i find myself distracted and often lost sight of my Walk and Talk group.